Owner and creative director, By Malene Birger
Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt
Danish
Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt is the owner of By Malene Birger and took over its creative direction after working for about a year alongside former creative director Maja Dixdotter. She leads the Copenhagen label's collections with head of design Sydney Roark, steering it toward a more polished look, and presented the Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week in August 2026.
Houses
Owner and creative director
By Malene Birger
Their runway, measured
30 looks in 1 showNext to every runway we track, Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt's looks are lighter, less neutral, smoother and more matte.
Colours
- Beige / camel · 3.4× the average18%
- Ivory / cream · 2.6× the average15%
- Black15%
- Silver · 2.6× the average14%
- Tan · 2.9× the average12%
- White6%
- Chocolate brown4%
- Pink · 1.6× the average3%
Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.
Colour and surface
- Lightness59/100lighter · all runways 39/100
- Colour saturation13.1about average · all runways 12.6
- Neutrals48%less neutral · all runways 60%
- Warm hues71%about average · all runways 70%
- Tonal looks30%about average · all runways 33%
- Colour-blockingΔE 33about average · all runways ΔE 35
- Surface texture2.53smoother · all runways 5.06
- Sheen0.009more matte · all runways 0.065
What sets them apart
Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers, with a glimpse of the looks: one from each collection that wore it most.
- Flip-flops / thongs13.9×Footwear
- Trapeze12.9×Silhouette
- Crochet8.5×Material
- Resort / vacation8.2×Style
- Tank top5.3×Garment
- Ballet flats5.1×Footwear
- Boho-luxe5.1×Style
- Mules5.0×Footwear
Silhouettes
- Column 43%2.2×
- Straight / tubular 37%
- Draped 23%1.9×
- Trapeze 23%12.9×
- Oversized 20%
Materials
- Silk / satin 37%1.5×
- Fringe 27%5.0×
- Knit 23%
- Crochet 17%8.5×
- Satin-back crepe / crepe 13%3.2×
Details
- Fringe 40%4.6×
- Cut-away / asymmetric hem 23%1.5×
- Draping 17%
- Raw / frayed hems 17%1.7×
- Gathering 13%
Patterns
- Geometric 10%2.9×
- Stripes 7%
- Abstract print 3%30% less
- Colour-block 3%40% less
Mood
- Elegant 87%2.0×
- Relaxed 80%2.4×
- Serene 73%3.5×
- Austere 10%48% less
- Sensual 10%
Era references
- 1970s 27%2.4×
- 1990s 17%2.2×
From the AI tags on 30 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.
For Publications