Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Founder and co-artistic director, Lemaire

Christophe Lemaire

French

Christophe Lemaire trained at Christian Lacroix and in several Paris studios before founding his label in 1991. He now leads Lemaire with Sarah-Linh Tran. The house is known for relaxed, functional clothing in muted colours and shows in Paris. The pair also run Uniqlo's Paris research and development centre and the Uniqlo U line.

Houses

Founder and co-artistic director
Lemaire
Since 1991 · about 35 years

Their runway, measured

124 looks in 2 shows

Next to every runway we track, Christophe Lemaire's looks are darker, more muted, less tonal and smoother.

Colours

Black31%
Charcoal16%
Chocolate brown · 1.7× the average10%
Beige / camel7%
Silver5%
Khaki / olive · 1.9× the average4%
Grey4%
Ivory / cream4%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness32/100darker · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation9.2more muted · all runways 12.6
Neutrals67%about average · all runways 60%
Warm hues72%about average · all runways 70%
Tonal looks20%less tonal · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 37about average · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture4.03smoother · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.087shinier · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Flip-flops / thongs 5.5×Leather jacket 4.6×Leather 3.8×1990s 3.1×Crumpled / creased 3.1×Overcoat 2.9×Workwear / utility 2.9×Quiet luxury 2.7×

Silhouettes

Straight / tubular 72%1.8×
Oversized 52%1.8×
High-rise 25%1.4×
Boxy 22%1.8×
Inverted triangle / strong shoulder 19%

Materials

Cotton / poplin 50%1.6×
Wool / tailoring cloth 39%
Leather 37%3.8×
Silk / satin 23%
Knit 23%

Details

Belts 32%1.7×
Utility pockets 23%1.7×
Shoulder emphasis 23%
Pleats 19%
Cut-away / asymmetric hem 17%

Patterns

Animal print 3%1.9×
Abstract print 2%49% less
Colour-block 2%56% less
Geometric 2%53% less
Abstract stripe / brushstroke 2%

Mood

Relaxed 71%2.1×
Elegant 49%
Austere 43%2.2×
Serene 37%1.8×
Utilitarian 19%2.6×

Era references

1990s 23%3.1×
1970s 15%
1940s 2%1.9×
1980s 2%58% less
1950s 2%34% less

From the AI tags on 124 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

Lemaire Spring/Summer 2027 — LemaireSpring/Summer 2027 · Men · Paris · 60 looks

Lemaire Fall/Winter 2026 — LemaireFall/Winter 2026 · Men · Paris · 64 looks