Press

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

WWDMonica Barbaro Contrasts in Plunging Black and White Brandon Maxwell Gown for GQ’s Men of the Year Party FashionistaICYMI: Hanifa's Relaunch, Nuuly Is 'Spring Awakening''s Styling Partner & Amber Valletta and Teddy Charles on Their New Hair-Care Brand FashionUnitedMr Marvis surpasses 25-store target and eyes new European markets Field NotesMilan: 25,612 looks from 549 houses, now on the map WWDCamila Cabello Embellishes Paris Texas’ Lidia Mules with Rosary Anklet at the 27th Annual Latin Grammy Awards FashionistaESP Showroom Is Hiring A Wholesale Fashion Showroom & Sales Coordinator In New York, NY (Hybrid)FashionUnitedWho is David Epstein, Hugo Boss’s next CEO?Field NotesParis: 11,161 looks from 267 houses, now on the map WWDFlorence Pugh Wears Gothic Mourning Dress with Vivienne Westwood Pumps at an East of Eden FYC Event in Los Angeles Fashionista'Angels Among Us' Winner Solange Omon Shares Advice for Aspiring Models FashionUnitedRimowa and Maison Margiela release limited-edition travel set Field NotesNew York: 2,080 looks from 49 houses, now on the map WWDAlexander Skarsgård Glistens In Liquid Satin COS Men’s Shirt with Dusty Pink Cummerbund FashionistaMust Read: Smart Glasses Launch Reopens Debate Over Privacy, How Fashion Helped Protect Great Bear Rainforest FashionUnitedMade in France: Mélenchon wants to revive French textile industry Field NotesTokyo: 1,743 looks from 54 houses, now on the map WWDDrake’s Nocta Brand Will Debut a New Nike Technology on Its Next Sneaker Release FashionistaHow This Former Teacher Built a Business Selling and Archiving Vintage Luxury Fashion FashionUnitedBrand Radar: Kardo - the Indian brand turning artisanal textiles into modern menswear Field NotesCopenhagen: 1,455 looks from 51 houses, now on the map Field NotesLagos: 1,409 looks from 50 houses, now on the map Field NotesLondon: 1,164 looks from 33 houses, now on the map Field NotesBerlin: 985 looks from 41 houses, now on the map Field NotesSão Paulo: 287 looks from 8 houses, now on the map Field NotesMexico City: 267 looks from 9 houses, now on the map Field NotesFlorence: 137 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesMadrid: 131 looks from 3 houses, now on the map Field NotesSydney: 127 looks from 4 houses, now on the map Field NotesSeoul: 37 looks from 1 houses, now on the map

← The Designers

Founder and designer, sacai

Chitose Abe

Japanese, born 1965

Chitose Abe worked as a pattern maker and designer at Comme des Garcons, including on Junya Watanabe's line, before starting sacai in Tokyo in 1999. The label is known for hybrid garments that splice classic pieces such as trench coats, knitwear and tailoring, and for frequent collaborations with brands including Nike and Carhartt WIP.

Houses

Founder and designer
sacai
Since 1999 · about 27 years

Their runway, measured

117 looks in 3 shows

Next to every runway we track, Chitose Abe's looks are darker, more muted, more neutral and less tonal.

Colours

Black · 1.6× the average38%
Charcoal16%
Chocolate brown · 1.6× the average9%
Ivory / cream8%
Khaki / olive · 2.4× the average6%
Grey3%
White3%
Beige / camel2%

Share of garment area across their looks; × is against every runway.

Colour and surface

Lightness31/100darker · all runways 39/100
Colour saturation8.9more muted · all runways 12.6
Neutrals71%more neutral · all runways 60%
Warm hues64%about average · all runways 70%
Tonal looks26%less tonal · all runways 33%
Colour-blockingΔE 38about average · all runways ΔE 35
Surface texture4.13smoother · all runways 5.06
Sheen0.079shinier · all runways 0.065

What sets them apart

Shapes, fabrics and details they use far more often than other designers.

Socks with sandals 27.5×Zips as decoration 5.4×Utilitarian 5.1×Workwear / utility 4.1×Tiered / layered volume 3.7×Bomber 3.7×Scarf / stole 3.6×Shirt 3.5×

Silhouettes

Oversized 60%2.1×
Straight / tubular 46%
Boxy 29%2.5×
High-rise 26%1.4×
Tiered / layered volume 25%3.7×

Materials

Cotton / poplin 85%2.7×
Wool / tailoring cloth 50%1.6×
Silk / satin 33%1.4×
Knit 25%
Technical / nylon 16%2.3×

Details

Utility pockets 43%3.1×
Hardware / studs / chains 38%2.9×
Belts 34%1.8×
Pleats 30%1.9×
Lacing / ties 30%1.8×

Patterns

Colour-block 15%2.8×
Stripes 8%
Pinstripe 5%1.6×
Check / plaid 4%
Photographic print 4%4.1×

Mood

Relaxed 56%1.6×
Edgy 41%2.6×
Utilitarian 36%5.1×
Austere 24%
Nostalgic 22%1.5×

Era references

1990s 9%
1970s 9%
1960s 1%71% less
1940s 1%33% less
1980s 1%85% less

From the AI tags on 117 of their looks. A designer is credited with a house's shows while they lead it; ×: how much more often than across all 25,892 measured looks.

Opening looks

The first looks of each collection

Collections

sacai Spring/Summer 2027 — sacaiSpring/Summer 2027 · Paris · 46 looks

sacai Spring/Summer 2027 — sacaiSpring/Summer 2027 · Men · Paris · 42 looks

sacai Fall/Winter 2026 — sacaiFall/Winter 2026 · Men · Paris · 75 looks